How to ….
How to lighten the pump stroke
Easy. Remove the bolt from the gun, take out the bolt spring and cut it down a bit.
How to polish the barrel (How To)
Because the paint overspary inside the barrel, polishing the barrel will be a good idea.
Make sure you COMPLETELY take the PGP apart, so you have ONLY the 3 brass tubes body to work with. If you got a power drill, the straight bottom of a broken clothes hanger, a rag to wrap around the straight platic hangar piece (slightly bigger than the barrel bore so it fits tight) and some brass polish (Brassco). You rubbed some polish on the rag and squirted a little into the bore and began drilling. be warned that the entire pistol will get hot to the touch after a few minutes due to the friction being created inside of the bore. It will got so hot, so BE CAREFUL! take your time with it. and if all of the overspray isnt gone you can follow up with a dremel and some polish. Good luck.
Do it at your own risk!!!
How to rebend the pump rod (How To)
A bended pump rod will cause havey pump stroke. Here are some tips: To rebend/straighten a rod, take it out of the pump handle, lay it on a flat bench and gently tap the high spot with a small hammer. If you try to bend it by hand it will snap off. – Peter “Wharf Rat” Simpson
How to oil the PGP? (How To)
A few drops oil on the tip of a new 12-gram, insert the 12-garm carefully into the gun, so the oil can stay on the 12-gram. Load and dry fire until it runs out of CO2, clean the barrel. A drop of oil on each bolt O-Ring.
How to increasing efficiency (How To)
Valve porting, Barrel honing… many many options are available at Custom Shops.
How to mount a Autococker/Automag .45 frame on: (How To)
Since the original WGP grip frame was based off of the Sheridan frame (and AGD later used the WGP frame on the Automag) with a little work an Autococker or Automag frame (stock or .45) can be adapted to work on the PGP. There are two ways to go about this (well, 3).
The first (and easiest) was summed up by by GusDaDog:
Easy as pie…. take the trigger, sear, spring, and pins from the stock frame….insert the stock trigger with the stock pin…then insert the sear with spring in the spot where the pins that hold the grips on is…you may have to drill that spot out to take the pin….you may need to file a “seat” into the new frame for the spring to sit in….just look at the stock frame and copy that….the mag frame will bolt up just like the stock frame…it’s easy….should take about 15 minutes once ya got the tools gathered. Ed. Note: One ‘problem’ with doing it this way is you have the flat top of the new grip frame mating with the curved bottom tube of the Sheridan. There may be issues with strength, and it certainly won’t look the best, but GusDaDog says it works just fine.
Punisher recommends milling the top of the frame so that it fits flush with the lower tube of the Sheridan. He provides this service through his shop, or a machine shop should be able to do this using a .875 ball end mill bit.
The third way is sort of a cross between the two…making an adapter to go between the flat grip frame and the curved tube. A piece of aluminum is the preferred material to make this with. A machine shop should have no trouble turning one out in a short time.
It is a lot of work but if you have the tools and skills it is easy.