General Information about PGP2001
This document is intended to answer common questions related to the care, use, modification, and repair of the Sheridan/Crosmann PGP paint marking pistol. Much of this information also is applicable to the other brass tube construction pump action paint markers produced by the Sheridan/Crosmann company.
1. General Information about PGP2001
2. How to take the PGP Apart
3. Aftermarket Parts (Upgrades)
5. How To …
6. Misc & Credits
First thing first, what is “PGP”?
The PGP is a pump-action Stock Class paintball pistol, which has been in production since the early 1980s. It’s predecessor was the Sheridan PGP (Older style).
What does “PGP” stand for?
No one really seems to know for sure. “Paint Gun Pump” is my personal guess.
Then, what is “Newer” what is “Older”?
The older PGP was released since early 1980s. The newer model was released 3-1-01 to replace the older model. The newer one also known as “PGP2001” or PGP2K1 or just “2K”.
Same great performance as the older ones, some new features are added to the newer model, see blow.
1. Longer barrel
The newer model has a barrel that is 1.5 inch longer than the older model. But they have no noticeable difference in accuracy though. New guns usually have black paint oversprayed in the barrel from the factory, it should be polished out. Bore size of the barrel is 0.689. So large bore paintballs are recommended for best accuracy.
2. Fiber-optic Sights
The new Fiber-optic Sights replace the front bead sight on the old style PGP. They are plastic. Yes, plastic. But they are tough, so unless you are going to hammer them, they should be fine. No aftermarket parts to replace them at this moment. Are they useful? Depended on how you are going to use them. Most people I know, myself included, aim down the side of the barrel or by looking straight through it. It does impress the newbies though.
The rear sights are also attached to a more functional plastic part, Sheridan’s version of a speedloader. This is a plastic sleeve that fits over the end of the feed tube. When in the rearward position, the top has a hole for loading paintballs individually, or placing a 10 round tube over. A 10 round tube will not jam into the top hole. When placed forward, this hole is over the feed tube, preventing paint from spilling out. Part of the controversy with this loading system is because in earlier versions of the newer model there was a problem with balls jamming or rolling back further than necessary. However this problem has since been remedied. If yours breaks, or you just don’t like it, a Masse Machine or Mad Customs Speedloader is a much better device, and allows you to keep an extra 10 rounds on the gun.
4. Velocity Adjuster
Newer model comes with a Velocity Adjuster allow you to control your velocity. It is great, there is NOTHING wrong with it, keep it the way it is.
5. Fast Changer
Remember how pain in the /\ss to change 12 gram on the older model? 15+ turns will take you 30sec to complete changing the d**n thing. If you got bunkered during this process, too bad. So an aftermarket Fast Changer is a must on the older model. But good news, the newer model has a built in Fast Changer! It has been extended and given larger threading, allowing one to load and unload 12 grams quickly and easily. Only 3 turns will get the 12 gram in or out. Nice and easy!
6. Quick Strip Bolt
The bolt has a knob in the back that moves back, relieving spring tension on the anti-blowback ball bearings, creating a much smoother easier pump stroke. The pump arm also removes itself easily when pulled, allowing one to twist and remove the bolt for easy cleaning of the barrel.
Some PGP2001 users have the ball breaking problem caused by the design of the newer bolt, here are some modifications you can do to avoid this problem. See http://home.rochester.rr.com/e6paintballpage/ for more details. Also Cooper-T had made a aftermarket bolt for the newer model can easily take care of this problem as well.